An Interview with George Cini

Tucked away in the heart of Valletta, Strait Street – better known as Strada Stretta – was once the city’s most infamous thoroughfare. At its peak, from World War II through the 1970s, the street gained a reputation that stretched far beyond Malta’s shores, attracting sailors, musicians, barmaids, and those seeking adventure after months at sea, in its dimly lit bars, restaurants, and music halls.

Few have captured the spirit of this legendary street as vividly as veteran journalist George Cini, author of three books documenting its history. In a conversation with Petra Galea Debono from Very Valletta, Mr. Cini shares his insights into the colourful characters who once thrived there and how Valletta’s past still echoes in its streets today.

 The Forgotten Pulse of Valletta

Born and raised in Valletta, Mr. Cini recalls the mystique that surrounded Strait Street. His grandmother often warned him to stay away, but his fascination with the area only grew. It wasn’t until 2004, when he was sent there on a journalistic assignment, that he truly began to explore its hidden stories. By then, the street had fallen silent – its once-bustling bars and shops long since shuttered. Yet, something lingered.

“I could still feel it,” he says. “There was something there – voices from the ghosts of the past.”

Mr. Cini’s research led him into the lives of Valletta’s working-class residents: the barmaids, prostitutes, bar owners, and musicians who had called Strait Street home. Before compulsory education laws were introduced in 1947, large families often sent their children to work instead of school. Boys became barbers, shoemakers, or street vendors, while young women had limited choices – many finding work in the lively, and sometimes notorious, bars of Strada Stretta.

A Street of Many Faces

For decades, Strada Stretta was the beating heart of Valletta’s nightlife. Barmaids, often mistaken for prostitutes, worked the bars, earning commissions on the drinks they sold. Instead of cash, they received tokens, which they later exchanged for wages – a system designed to keep them tied to their establishments.

British and American servicemen poured into the street’s bars, fuelling the local economy. However, tensions frequently arose between the British servicemen stationed in Malta and the newly arrived Americans, whose higher wages created resentment. Brawls were common, but so was the music.

“Jazz saved the bar owners,” explains George. Many of Malta’s most renowned musicians, such as Oscar Lucas, Frank ‘il-Bibi’ Camilleri, and Joe Fiteni, began their careers in the bars of Strada Stretta. After World War II, live bands were gradually replaced by jukeboxes, making entertainment more affordable. “Music united people,” he adds.

Among the street’s legendary figures was Jimmy ‘L-Irish,’ a businessman and former bar owner known for his sharp survival instincts. His father, despite being uneducated, built a business empire in Valletta, proving that street smarts often mattered more than formal schooling.

Women, Power, and Stigma

Despite its reputation, Strait Street was a place where women held significant power. Many barmaids and madams successfully managed businesses, demonstrating financial independence and resilience. However, the stigma remained. Even today, the descendants of those who worked in Strada Stretta prefer to keep their past hidden.

One of the street’s most well-known figures was open about her life and experiences. Yet, when her children, now professionals, asked Mr. Cini to downplay her story, it became clear that the shame surrounding Valletta’s nightlife history still lingers.

 The Church, Society, and Survival

Surprisingly, the Catholic Church never publicly condemned Strada Stretta’s activities. George believes the Church took a pragmatic approach, understanding that many women had no other means of survival. Instead of banning such businesses, some priests even held Mass inside bars, allowing workers to fulfil their religious duties.

 

This interview also highlights Malta’s deep-rooted social divisions – the contrast between the cosmopolitan, street-savvy people of Valletta and the more reserved, traditional communities of Malta’s villages. This divide, Mr. Cini suggests, is still visible in the way people speak, behave, and interact today.

 

 The Decline of Strada Stretta

By the 1960s and 70s, Strait Street’s golden age was fading. The British Navy’s departure, economic shifts, and social changes led to its decline.

Hotels and new businesses emerged, offering alternative employment. By that time many former barmaids transitioned into Malta’s new and growing tourism and hospitality industries. Others simply moved away, eager to leave their past behind.

Today, Valletta is undergoing yet another transformation. Regeneration projects have reignited interest in Strada Stretta’s history, but its original spirit is gone. “Strait Street can never be what it was,” admits George. The nightlife that once defined it has now moved online or behind closed doors.

 Valletta: A City of Stories

For George, writing about Strada Stretta is not about sensationalism – it’s about preserving history. He recalls a British Navy veteran who once visited Malta and was shocked to find that people still remembered Strait Street. “I thought I’d been forgotten,” the veteran told him. But Valletta never forgets.

Through his books, Mr. Cini ensures that the voices of Valletta’s past are not lost in the noise of modernity. His work reminds us that cities are more than just buildings – they are shaped by the people who lived, worked, and fought for survival within them.

Strait Street may no longer be the chaotic, vibrant hub it once was, but thanks to historians like George Cini, its great stories will live on.

Note: “Strait Street: Secrets and Stories from Behind Closed Doors” is the latest book by George Cini, marking his third exploration of this legendary Valletta Street. Through meticulous research, George captures the rich history and countless tales that have unfolded along its narrow passageways, preserving them for future generations. Contact us to learn more about this fascinating street and its distinctive characters.